Definition a Day - Voile

printed voile blouse found on pinterest from Le Chateau

Ok first thing is first, Happy Monday! It snowed here again in NYC. Only a few inches though.  Yesterday at work I was telling a co-worker about my definition a day blog posts and he suggested I definitely define voile.  AND point out that this fabric can be pronounced two ways.  So Keith, thank you for the suggestion.  Voile, it can be pronounced like foil and the French would pronounce it vwyal (like wall).  

Voile is usually found being 100% cotton but can be found in blends.  It is sheer and a low count, plain weave fabric.  It comes from the French word veil.  It is great for curtain linings or curtains, also great for lingerie.   It is soft but crisp so has a lovely drape.  This is because the yarns used to weave it have a hard or voile twist.

PROS- easy to sew with, nice drape, breathable and breezy
CONS - wrinkles easily, shrinks

Voile from fabric.com

Here is a beautiful photo example of voile, the sheerness of it.

Voile via pinterest

Loving these voile pants in seafoam green.  These pants are by the brand Hard Tail and are made with a double layer of voile.  Perfect for hot climates.

Voile pants by Hard Tail at Nordstrom

Have you ever sewn with voile? I haven't but I am thinking of maybe making a pair of pants similar to the ones above by Hard Tail.   You can find more voile photos here on my pinterest board for fabrics.

Definition a Day - Tweed

Tweed girls coat from J. Crew

Tweed is a fantastic fabric that just says fall and prep school.  You know when you see a tweed because it will have little flecks of color in it.

houndstooth tweed

Most tweeds are wool but you can find blends, usually with silk which gives it a lovely drape and makes the fabric lighter weight.  Characteristically tweed is a medium to heavy weight wool.   Most tweeds are in a twill weave, that diagonal weave which is what makes it durable.  Tweeds come in many different patterns.  Ok what does that mean?  It means the coloring of the yarns.  For example there is herringbone, plaid or houndstooth.

houndstooth tweed Vans (photo from hypebeast.com)

Here is a fabulous pink and white tweed that is currently being sold at Mood Fabrics in NYC.

It is by Marc Jacobs.  I can so see myself in a sheath dress made with this fabric.  This tweed is made of wool, cottton and polyamide.  See how the yarns in the fabric are large and thin?  This is going to make it a loose weave but give it a very cool slubby look.  This isn't a traditional tweed but the non orderly way it is colored is what is making it a tweed.

 Tweeds are easy to sew with, flexible and durable.  Therefore they are often used in sport coats, skirts and outerwear. 
Have you sewn with a tweed before? Did you like it?  I have never sewn with a tweed before but I would love to hear what others think about it.

Definition a Day: Fashion Week Fabrics- Brocade

Brocade jacket and skirt Michael Kors via vogue.com

Fashion week began in NYC yesterday so I thought I would give a definition of a fabric being seen on the runway by Michael Kors.  Brocade - a woven fabric usually made with colored silks.  It can come in polyester or acrylic as well therefore being cost efficient.  It is woven on a jacquard loom which is basically weaving a design as it is made.  Brocades are nice to use in skirts, pants and even totes.  Also seen being used in upholstery, wedding gowns and costumes.  Comes in medium to heavy weight.

 an African inspired Brocade from fabricdirect.com

Michael Kors from Vogue.com

Here is a cute brocade in polyester from Mood Fabrics .  And if you aren't local to NYC you can order swatches thru mood.com

                                                   

                                

Now for the pros and cons.

PROS - available in synthetics so can be affordable, looks luxurious, minimal shrinkage, patterns can be ornate or subtle.  Another pro in my opinion you can use the face or back side of fabric.  Since the design is woven it looks pretty on both sides!

CONS - can fray easily so here's a tip use wider seams and finish them with a serger or pinking shears

Have you ever sewn with a brocade? Do you think you might try it out? If not why not? 

I would love to hear what you think of the fabric.

Have a great weekend!

Hemp, You Don't Smoke It

Hemp is becoming quite popular for sewing.  Some people may think it may be toxic but it isn't.  It actually is a very eco-friendly fiber.  It can grow in many climates, quite rapidly and requires little water.  It also is a weed suppressor.  It replenishes the soil around it and cleans the toxins from the ground.  Fabric wise, it is quite similar to linen with the exception that it does not wrinkle as easily.  It is a plain weave and can shrink significantly. It looks like canvas with a slubby appearance.  It also is quite versatile coming in different weights.

hemp knit from fabric.com 
55% hemp/35% organic cotton

PROS- easy to sew with, softens with each wash

CONS- can fray


Everybody is getting on the hemp train, even Martha Stewart.  Lion Brand knitting company is now carrying a cotton/hemp yarn in a worsted weight in 20 colors and it is being licensed under Martha's brand. Being a worsted weight and eco-friendly it is perfect for baby gifts, washcloths and towels.

Looking to buy something made already with hemp? Check out Patagonia.  They have a wide selection for men and women.

Gabardine

Organic cotton gabardine

Gabardine is another fabric that is often suggested on pattern envelopes for skirts and suits.  Gabardine, invented by Thomas Burberry, of the famous Burberry brand.  He wanted to create something that was versatile and durable.  Gabardine is a twill weave and twills are quite strong.  Traditionally gabardine is made of worsted wool yarn but now can be found made of cotton, synthetics or other blends.  It is a medium weight fabric and usually is dry cleaned or hand wash.

Great for dresses, shirts, straight skirts, pants, jackets, coats and suits.



PROS -  gabardine tends not to wrinkle
drapes well

CONS- difficult to press
can pucker around curves when sewing

Dior Homme Gabardine Duffle Coat

From the online fabric store

Hermes Suit in gabardine wool and cotton